At Maker Faire or two ago I bought the Voice Shield kit that is produced by SpikenzieLabs (http://www.spikenzielabs.com).
It fits on top of the Arduino and only uses a few pins of the Arduino so there are lots of other pins available to do other things like trigger a sound, or whatever.
It is based around the ISD4003. (I have used the ISD2560 in previous projects).
I was a little intimidated by the instructions on how to get the interface up and running, but I eventually figured out what I was missing and then it was pretty easy.
Basically you load the ISD4003 with sounds using the separate program, (available from their website) by sort of giving the words a number. Then after that, that program is gone and you can play them using by calling the numbers in your own program.
There are some code snippets there to sort of give guidance.
It actually sounds better than the ISD2560 and it comes with a small amplifier so testing does not require you to build an amplifier to hear things. I found trying to take the sound from my computer wasn’t so easy. There was some crackle noise coming through the computer which was also being recorded. I used my MP3 player and took the output from the headphone jack and the sound was very clean after that.
I made a carrier board to take some inputs from the Voice Direct speech recognition module.
Here are the electronics that I plan to add to the 1812. There is a servo motor, a speaker, a Sharp gp2d12, Voice Direct module, Arduino and Voice Shield. Missing are the batteries and some LEDs.
I have done an initial paint job on my DRD. My DRD will mimic the 1812 DRD from Farscape.
There still needs to be a second coat of paint and I have not actually painted the white yet (it is just white Gesso at the moment). And of course some detailing.
Have been working on other aspects and features, more to come soon.
I have been busy working on various parts of the DRD and I finally finished and painted the eyes and stalks.
For the lens pieces I got some Friendly Plastic beads and tried various methods of moulding the lens.
First attempt was with fingers. Wow, that stuff gets really hot.
The second attempt was by making a mould out of polymer clay. This worked better but no matter how much I tried, I could not get two curved surfaces with the same thickness, smoothness and the same curve,
My solution was to purchase a couple of ping pong balls and I cut a lens cover out of the surface.
I say it is a lens cover because ping pong balls are too thin to be used on their own, they need something else. I ended up using the Friendly Plastic beads and the ping pong lenses. I tried two ping pong ball lenses but that was still too bright.
While waiting for the filler to dry on the DRD shell, I started to play around with the eye stalks.
I had been to my local home do-it store and I purchased some corrugated cable tubes that are used behind monitors or computers where the cables are neatly dressed together.
I also got some plastic electrical conduit pieces. The pieces have a nice bulge at the end that look about right. I cut the conduit down to a smaller size and these are going to be the basis of my DRDs eye stalk.
To give it some stiffness I added two plastic tubes from the plumbing section and finally a metal coat hanger wire to allow it to hold its shape.
I have just glued some paper around the plastic and have added some detail to the end of eye stalk and then I need to sand and paint it.
Here are the eye pieces with the paper and additional detail added. I got two LED flashlights from the dollar store. Both will be cut down as above from the original size to the one below.
Here is the lamp part of the flashlight added into the eye piece
Not sure how I will do this yet, but I would like to attach the eye stalks so they will bob up and down by turning the servo.
I have been busy sanding, filling and painting the DRD shell. The process started with wood filler and is now at the drywall mud stage.
The grit of the sand paper has become quite fine now and then, once it appears to be smooth, painting a matte white finish of gesso shows up the imperfections that you may or may not want to actually see. It is amazing how many there are.
Here is the DRD side view, right before the next sanding stage. This is really the bit I do not like. Not only is it messy but it also takes so long to do.
Knowing when to say that it’s enough sanding is really hard to do. This is what it looks like. I have just added more filler and I think hope this will be my last layer of filler.
I was at the Maker Faire last year in San Francisco and usually I come away with some things from the Maker Shed. This time was no exception and I bought a motor chassis for a robot with 4 wheel drive, I just could not resist.
Anyway, I got it home and realized the metal parts were perfectly stable but the plastic bits like the wheels and motors were a bit on the cheap side. I mostly purchased it for the metal chassis so I was not too bothered.
I put it all together. The wheels are of very cheap quality it was supposed to go in my next Dalek, but I have been thinking that this could be utilized quite well in my DRD.
So I put it all together. It really is a shame about the quality of the motors and wheels, otherwise I would have ordered several more right away. I could also be a bit premature it may still work OK, but I have not tried it yet.
Above is a picture of the modified chassis. I added a servo at the front to wobble the eye stalks. Not sure how this will work yet (or if it even will work). The chassis is really cool; it has a place to put ultrasonic detectors and servos and other sensors. I have sort of hacked mine to be ready for the DRD.
I added some aluminium bars across the bottom and the body of the DRD will sit on top of these bars. The idea is to just attach it to the underside of the shell with some nuts. My thought at first was to use some hinges then I could lift the shell up, but I realized that I was making things more complex then they needed to be.
Underneath look at the body shell
Here is a picture of the underside of the shell of the DRD. I hope to add AA battery packs at the front and back end of the 2 bars.