Inside the windy City –

5mm square test prints

Q*bert times 3

While trying to troubleshoot the molten ball on the top row,  I had the extraction fan and lights all working. I noticed it took longer than “normal” to heat the bed. I had adjusted the heated bed temperature to be approx 100 degrees but it was slow. heating up, I thought this was odd, previously using my old mark 2 heated bed it was taking approx 18 minutes to reach 115 degrees C. Now it was taking 30 minutes to reach 100 degrees.

Continue reading “Inside the windy City –”

Configuration time

I got the front and side perspex mounted and complete with magnets for holding in place and handles for opening and access to inside.
The next step was to power it all up and test.
I shuddered at the thought of all the configurations needed.

Filament is guided of the reel
Keep that filament straight
  • New MK3 heated bed (Aluminum printed bed)
  • New E3D V6 nozzle (size is different from V5)
  • New thermistor for the V6 hot end
  • New thermistor for the heated bed

Continue reading “Configuration time”

140Watts should be enough for anyone

I was waiting for some Acrylic for the outside of my enclosure, I had taken my heated bed and moved it to the side while adding the upgraded hot end. I thought I should put it back now I have the new Marlin Firmware & I could adjust the hot end height etc. In the past I had levelled the bed quite easily but now for some reason it was just was not levelling at all. The bed was totally twisted.

I was trawling Amazon and saw the MK3 aluminium clad heated bed. I read about the MK3 and how it should have an even heated surface.
Ordering it was the easy part.
I have always found that the LED on the bed was a good sign of if the bed was on or not. I examined the bed when it arrived it seemed OK. Quite thick no visible warping. I also noticed that the LED would now be facing down and not visible. I thought I would just wire the LED to a resistor two wires and add it to the loom no big deal.

I tried to solder the heater wires to the pads with my 40 Watt soldering iron. It kept sticking to the pad it was like it was a magnet.
OK, I thought, this needs the 100 watt soldering iron gun. I tried heating up the gun until it had been on for several minutes. This gave me about 4 seconds of usable time then it started sticking too. After about 90 minutes I had managed to get the solder to flow on one of the pads. But the pads 2&3 had to be joined together there was no way I was going to solder this properly.

I thought about the reflow soldering process so I got the oven that my wife uses for her polymer clay. The oven was too small to put the board inside so I put the part of the board with the pads on the outside top of the oven and turned the oven on high.
You would think this would work!
The board was now hot and it gave a small improvement but not enough to solder both pads.
After spending 90 minutes fussing with the oven and the 100w gun. I added my 40 watt iron success the solder flowed. I needed an extra set of hands and got help to hold the wire in place and feed the solder while I held the 2 soldering irons together on the pad.
So if you are trying to upgrade to an aluminium heated bed, then now you know the key is to preheat the board so that the aluminium does not suck away all the heat from the soldering iron.
They are not the best solder joints in the world the one on the right is better but the 2 on the left wow they were difficult to solder neatly.

Mk3 bed about to be installed
New bed but no pillows

Turn the table

Item number 2 on my feature hit list is extraction of fumes to outside, so this is going to replace my current setup which is a window fan mounted on its side like a kitchen stove hood.

Fan mounted to push fumes down the hose.
Quick disconnect vent hose will allow easy access.

I cut a hole in the corner of the top surface of my Lack table and mounted a fan on the underside. On the top side above the fan,
Continue reading “Turn the table”